Lisbon and Porto, Portugal and one last stop in Spain – Vigo!

July 17-19, 2024

John and I loved Lisbon and its surrounding area when we visited in November 2021. In July 2024 it’s still lovely – but a lot more crowded.

We did a Guruwalk this time, so learned a little more about the history – especially about some of the street art.

Sofia the Fearless Woman by Superlinux (the “Portuguese Banksy”)

Our guide took us to the oldest bookstore in continuous use in Europe (and still a bookstore).

Classic Portuguese tile covers the side of the oldest bookstore in the world – The Bertrand Bookstore which opened in 1732 – I bought “Lessons in Chemistry” by Bonnie Garmus
The top of the Santa Justa elevator (the lower observation platform is free, the elevator costs €5.3)
The roof of the Carmo Convent was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake- and they decided not to repair it

Our guide focused on history of the 20th century under Salazar. King Carlos I and his eldest son were assassinated in 1908, leading to a political vacuum and revolution in 1910, when the First Republic attempted to govern the country. Unfortunately, conflicting powers put the country through 8 Presidents in 16 years and the instability brought a coup in 1926. The President under the new regime, Oscar Carmona, brought in finance minister Antonio Salazar. Salazar kept a central view as tensions grew, and was eventually named Prime Minister in 1932 – and maintained absolute power until his death in 1970 (even after losing his Prime Ministership in 1968 after a prolonged coma. When he woke – everyone pretended he was still Prime Minister due to fear of the man and his level of control). Although a perfect example of “absolute power corrupts absolutely” – he was not an isolationist, and made Portugal one of the founding members of NATO and led Portugal through significant financial gains, though all feared his secret police (the PIDE).

Overall, the hilly city is navigable by foot (with the occasional use of an elevator or the many hidden escalators) and by tram (a day pass is €6.4). Food is reasonable, but like a lot of Europe – rents are escalating making it difficult to afford living near the city center.

The next day we sailed to Porto in northern Portugal. Porto sits on the north side of the Duoro River, the other side is the city of Vila Nova de Gaia which is where you’ll find the port tastings – like with a lot of choices – it had to do with taxes. Like Lisbon, Porto is very hilly, but knowing where the hidden escalators and elevators help make it more manageable for one’s legs. The city charms many visitors – including J.K. Rowling who lived in Porto for 18 months teaching English while writing her first Harry Potter book, likely influenced by the many griffon statues and young academics running around the city in their black robes.

Bookstore founded in 1808 then renovated in about 1900 in art nouveau style- rumored to be where J.K. Rowling wrote a lot of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone (she didn’t, but fans still line up to see the inside of the bookstore – entry fee is offset by a discount on any book purchased).
Juan Munoz sculptures of men “rolling on the floor laughing” in Porto
Cathedral in Porto with religious scenes and filigree in tile on the outer wall
A “love” story statue next to the courthouse/jail where both were “imprisoned” during their trial for adultery
World’s fanciest McDonald’s (the decorations from a prior bar called “The Imperial”- the former owners insisted that whoever bought the establishment had to keep the decorations)
A vat of port – Calem was established in 1859 and one of the first ports to be exported en masse to the new world – Brazil.
Some of the extensive tiling in Porto’s train station
Port tasting: 1)”Fine White” – fairly dry: apple-y, light for a port (would make a nice spritzer); 2)LBV Ruby-very cherry and raspberry- sweet
3)tawny 10 year-very sweet and smooth- strong blackberry finish (and my favorite)- (note: red ports lose color with aging)

The city of Vigo, in northern Spain, was one of the first to be liberated from the Moors, and resisted invasion by the French under Napoleon. Napoleon did take the city – but most people lived in the country. The families and nobles banded together and attacked the soldiers any time they left the city, essentially creating a siege and starved out the soldiers. Now it’s a fun city that displays a quirky sense of humor in its art.

“The Merman” – aka an opposite mermaid – male, with legs instead of tail, fins instead of arms by Francisco Leiro
– Not doing a face-plant – this statue is representing a diver: the sidewalk is on reclaimed land, so a comment on changing the environment and land.
A lovely Albarino – which we shared with friends while listening to music

We spent the afternoon enjoying wine and mussels while listening to a live band in a square. I really enjoyed Vigo – my lack of photos is more of an issue with my photography talent and not of the lovely, lively city ( a furnished, bills paid 3BR, 2 bath with narrow terrace and view of the water rents for about €1100 per month, should anyone be curious).

And now we leave sunny Spain for the Emerald Isle.

6 Comments:

  1. With whom did you book the guruwalk in Lisbon?

  2. Thanks Carolyn. Looks like there are many guruwalks in Lisbon. Do you happen to remember which one you tool?

    • John booked it – I’ll try to see if it’s still on his app. Looking at the logos – I’m pretty sure we used 1 2 Tours

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