Road Tripping 2022

Natchez Trace Day 1

Just a couple of miles from the Grand Village of the Natchez, I drove over an overpass and “Welcome to the Natchez Trace Parkway” marked the beginning of the historic drive that covers 444 miles from Natchez, MS to just outside of Nashville, TN. 

The “road” has been traversed by Native Americans and then settlers for centuries until it became designated a part of the National Park System in 1938, with the Parkway completed in 2005. It is almost exclusively a 2- lane road, but except for sections near the larger cities, I saw few cars. I did Leap-frog with a couple from Friendswood, TX (a city about 40 miles from Galveston) who had their RV and also doing the Trace over 2 days.

My First Stop was Mount Locust, a restored plantation house and “stand”. Stands were inns and guesthouses that lined the trace, offering shelter to travelers. It was by far the most modest plantation house I have seen, a simple wooden cabin with a kitchen, 4 rooms and a loft. It opened to travelers in 1780, charging 25 cents for a bed and a meal. The house has been restored to descriptions from 1820. (And looking at the beds – they looked more comfortable than the one I’d slept in the night before). Paths surrounding the house include those to the slave cemetery and the cemetery of the Mount’s owners.

I drove at the leisurely 50mph along the trace to my next stop – Rocky Springs, about 30 miles further up the road. The historic town, known for springs with good water once held a population of over 2000 people, then the springs dried up. Now, the church still stands, holding services once a month. Two random metal safes and cisterns are all that’s left of the once bustling town.

It is a good reminder of the transient nature of civilization- many rise, grow and fall. 

There are no restaurants or cafés along the Trace itself, so I left the trace at Jackson (milepost 100 and the state’s capital) to grab a quick lunch, then back to the drive. I’d planned my next stop to be the Reservoir Overlook but I misread a sign to the Reservoir – taking me off the trace. I took a few photos and after getting back on, I decided not to pull over at the overlook – which was a mistake.

As I drove by I could see the view was lovely and there wasn’t a second stop along the reservoir (there were some steep gravel pull-offs, but a 4-wheel drive would likely be required). 

My last stop before Tupelo was the Witch Dance – legend has it that where the witches danced, grass would never grow. There were multiple bare spots in an otherwise green pasture. 

I arrived in Tupelo, Mississippi, at about 7PM after driving about 240 miles of the Trace, to one of my best AirBNBs ever– an absolutely perfectly converted garage efficiency apartment with a comfortable bed, lovely kitchen with all the amenities, and clean, properly put together bathroom. Believe me – I slept very well that night.

Tupelo is known as the birthplace of “The King” – Elvis Presley. Some cities have painted horses, some pigs or cows, Tupelo has painted guitars.

The #1 tourist attraction – the Elvis Birthplace Museum.  I headed there before returning to the Trace the next morning. 

I opted for the “Grand Ticket” including the museum, the house and the church for $20. The house sits exactly where it was built by Elvis’s father Vernon and his uncle. There are two rooms – the bedroom and the kitchen/living area and a porch.

Unfortunately, Vernon went to jail in 1938, when Elvis was only 3 years old, for check forgery (for $4). The loss of income resulted in the Presley’s losing their home. Eventually, they moved to Memphis in 1948. The museum offered a comprehensive view of Elvis’s life (Elvis entered a children’s talent contest at the age of 10 – he placed 5^th) and contributions to music.

In 2008, The First Assembly of God Church was moved one block to the home’s grounds. The church had been converted to a private home, and after being moved was restored to it’s appearance in the early 40’s. They highlight how hymns and gospel music contributed to Elvis’s development as a musician. All three of his Grammys were for gospel music (for “Inspirational Performance – How Great Thou Art in 1968 (and again for a live version in 1975) and He Touched Me in 1973.) The church video was OK, the moving of the church was the most interesting part for me. For those true Elvis fans – the pew is the original and was “touched by Elvis” since he performed in the church many times as a child (and the pastor taught him how to play guitar). 

Now back to the Trace!