Travel in the Time of COVID 2021: Spain

Andalucia – Almeria 

Road trip! 

John and I are continuing our travels into the Communidad de Andalucia – the central southern portion which includes some of the most popular tourist areas of the country – such as Granada, Seville and Cordoba. 

Our first stop is the beautiful town of Almeria. Its old town hosts rows of tapas bars, restaurants, beautiful shops, and has a vibrant energy- a late-night energy, as most of the tapas bars (and many restaurants) don’t open until 8PM.

Several of the bars will provide a tapas menu – which lists the tapa included with a drink, the ones that require an extra fee (typically 1-2E), and food not included with drinks. 

In a town with strong food culture, one must do something to work up the appetite. And with the beautiful sunny day we were given, we made the most of it. The first main attraction was the Cathedral de la Encarnacion. Built in 1524 to be both a Cathedral and a fortress to protect the populace and the clergy from Barbary Pirates. The 5E pp entry fee (4.50 for seniors) is well worth the experience, and includes a very detailed audio guide. 

Next, we headed off to the Alcazaba, the fortress/citadel that pre-dates the Alhambra. Entry is free, but you need to bring your ID and wear comfortable shoes. You’ll be doing a lot of stairs. Like almost all fortresses, it is perched on top of a hill.

For those of us in modern day, we enjoy spectacular views, historically, elevation was key to early warning and defense. The main fortress dates back to Roman times, and the structure we see today was mainly constructed in the 9^th and 10^th centuries, including elaborate water features to display the cities wealth and importance. 

In the early afternoon, I couldn’t resist dragging John into the Guitar Museum, literally located behind the Cathedral, while Liam and Alan enjoyed a cano in the courtyard. The modern guitar was designed by Almeria native Antonio de Torres. Including demonstrating the development of the guitar from previous instruments, they have listening areas for guitar styles (which unfortunately was not working at the time of my visit). In the evenings, they have professional guitar players give live demonstrations. Entry is 3E (2 for seniors). 

Almeria is a beach town, so we spent the remainder of the afternoon walking the long, tiled boardwalk and soaking up some sun. We got in 22,000 steps that day with 15 flights. We earned our tapas for that night!

Prior to Franco, Almeria had been amongst the busiest port cities in the world. They designed a railway that ended right at the port – at a height where ships contents could be loaded directly onto a train. Franco destroyed it as part of a way to suppress local dissidents. Bits of that railway remain (none of my photos were very good), and are now designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

The town has recovered from that era, and the Spanish make remembering those horrible times a priority to prevent any recurrence.

Another odd thing about the area, as one approaches, there is mile upon mile of plastic – not litter – plastic sheeting covering the crops grown throughout the region, creating seas of reflective white coating. 

Our next stop – the beach town of Nerja!