Travel in the Time of COVID: Europe 2021- Portugal II

Sintra

A mere 40-minute, 5E pp round trip commuter train ride north of Lisbon brings you to the mountain town of Sintra, the home of castles. Five to be precise, in one town. I was in heaven. 

Unfortunately, that is too many to do in a single day when they are spread across a few different hilltops, and three are huge. For the sake of practicality – we had to limit ourselves to two. (Also, because there are only so many castles John is willing to see in a day.)

In the main part of town, marked by two cone shaped chimneys, is the Vila Palace, which served as the Royal Summer Palace from the 14^th until the 19^th century. We did not go in, but it makes for a distinctive landmark to orient yourself, and is located less than a block from the tourist information center. 

The lady at the tourist center recommended that if we were limiting ourselves to two, then those should be the Quinta da Regaleira, about a mile walk from the train station, and the “Pena” which is about 3 miles up a narrow and windy hill, which can be reached via foot, Hop-on-Hop-Off red bus for 20Epp, or the #434 city bus day pass for 11Epp. We chose the city bus option. 

The Quinta de Regaleira was the home of the Viscountess Regaleira until it was purchased, along with 4 hectares of grounds, by Carvalho Monteiro in 1892. He was fascinated by all things Gothic, the Knights Templar, Masons and the occult.

He renovated the home to reflect the Gothic style, dug deep, stair-lined “wells” where he had tarot card readings and other ceremonies.

In the later-half of the 20^th century, the castle had several different owners, including a Japanese corporation, until it was purchased by the City of Sintra to restore the palace to its prior glory in 1997 after being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Pena Palace resides at the very top of Sintra Mountain.

It started in the 15^th century as a monastery that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake, where, except for a chapel that survived with alabaster and marble statues.

It remained in ruins until visited by Ferdinand II in the early 19^th century. He and Queen Maria II decided to build a new summer palace on a grand design, incorporating Moorish and Romantic elements, and was completed in 1854.

It did not last long as a royal palace, since the Monarchy ended in 1910. Queen Amelia spent her last day as the ruler of Portugal here before going into exile. 

From the windows and terraces of Pena Palace, you can see the Castle of Moors. 

Built in the 8^th and 9^th century, mainly as a military outpost, it is also a UNESCO site reached by the same 434 bus.

 Next up, the town of Faro in the Algarve region of Portugal.