Travel in the Time of COVID: Europe 2021- Spain IX

Communidad de Extremadura: Merida

There was no direct route from Huelva to Merida (unless you hired a car), so an evening train to Seville, a night in a lovely hotel near the train station, and a train on to Merida in the morning. Our brief layover in Seville allowed me to find a second-hand store to replace my fraying jeans (yes, I know frayed and cut up jeans are a “thing”, but not a me thing). I accomplished the task for 4E. They are a little “high water” – but in looking around, that also seems to be a “thing”. 

Merida was founded as the town Emerita Augusta in 25 BCE as a retirement community for the Roman Legions who campaigned in the region, and extensive excavations have unearthed a treasure trove of Roman ruins, among the best and most extensive ruins outside of Italy. Without further ado, we will proceed on the Roman Ruins Tour (tickets for all the sights is 16E, 8E for seniors).

We start at the Puente Romana – the Roman Bridge, the longest ancient bridge still in existence. It currently spans 721m, though portions of the original are buried in the banks, indicting an original span of 755m. It has required few structural changes, despite supporting vehicle traffic until 1991. 

On the old town side of the Guadiana River sits the remains of the Alcazar. A Roman wall and small fortification once stood here, then was modified into a much larger structure by the Moors in 835. 

Continuing along the route, you find the Villa Mitreo, a Roman manor house whose floors were covered by intricate mosaics and walls painted with designs using deeply colored pigments. 

After circling around the bullring and up the hill, you come across the Roman Amphitheater, where gladiators once engaged in combat and animals were set on each other to fight (the pit in the center housed the animals before their release into the arena). 

Immediately adjacent is the Roman Theater. Where the amphitheater was stone, the theater was filled with marble columns and statues. It was built upon the standard Vitruvius theater model for the day. The original building was constructed in approximately 15 BCE, though it went through several renovations in Roman times. In modern day, it was excavated in 1910, and plays resumed in 1933 (you’ll need to bring your own cushions). 

A few blocks into the city, and you find the Circus Maximus. It opened between 20-30 BCE, and up to 12 chariots could race around the oval to cheering crowds. It continued to be in use well into the 8^th century. It is one of the few stadiums remaining where the land has not been developed, although in the 1960’s a major roadway ran through the middle. In the 1990’s, the road was removed, and the walls, grandstand and center divider were excavated.

Turning back towards the city, you walk by extensive aqueducts (three different ones fed the city) – The Aqueduct of Miracles (begun in 100AD), the Agua Augusta and the San Lozaro. 

Going back towards our lodgings, we finished our day’s explorations at the Basilica de Santa Eulalia (who, in true early Christian style, was viciously tortured to attempt her to renounce her faith – https://www.catholicnewsagency.com/saint/st-eulalia-of-merida-79 ). The original structure, built in the 4^thcentury, remains as a portion of the portico, and the crypts beneath the church house many early Christian remains, with depictions of biblical scenes decorating the walls. 

We took a break and enjoyed a pleasant lunch. In the evening, we stopped by to see the Temple of Diana lit up and glowing in the night. 

Historically, the city remained important through many eras – the Visigoths and into the Moors, who changed the name to Marida. 

For the Holidays, the town square was festively decorated, with a modern light and music show presented every evening at 7PM in the Plaza de la Constitucion, surrounded by cafés and a carousel.

The present-day city is thriving, offering an entertaining place for visitors with great green space to go for a run or leisurely walk, restaurants, and convenient transportation both within the city on several bus routes and connections by bus and train to the rest of Spain.

Next stop – Salamanca!