Madrid
Madrid is – quite literally – the center of Spain. It is the second largest city in Europe- both by population of 3.7 million (largest is Berlin) and size at 604 sq. km (largest is Paris). The area has been settled since Celtic times, followed by the now familiar sequence of Romans, Visigoths, then Moors, who increased the settlement size during their occupation and built fortifications along the Manzanares River to help protect Toledo. On his way to conquering Toledo, King Alfonse VI of Leon and Castille took the settlement in 1083 (and then Toledo in 1085). As a border, it suffered many raids until the early 12th century, then earned its own city charter and council in the later 12th century. It continued to gain in Importance under Ferdinand IV in the 14th century. Philip II wanted the capital of Spain to be in the true center of the country, and brought his court to Madrid in 1561. The population exploded from 4000 in 1530 to over 80,000 in 1598.
The city knew some prolonged periods of peace, but was often the target of invaders and revolutionaries, from the early 18th century War of Spanish Succession to the Spanish Civil War in 1936-39, with bombings throughout Madrid. Franco kept the capital in Madrid, and moved in supporters from rural areas to cement his center of power. Franco’s death in 1975 paved the way for the new Spanish Constitution, ratified on December 6, 1978 (which, interestingly, also reinstituted the Monarchy- currently King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia).
Dia de la Constitucion is a major Holiday in Spain. We did not know all of this heading into downtown Madrid from the airport area via the metro (day pass 8.5E pp, which includes the 3E airport fee). We were surprised by how crowded the metro was at 10:30 on a Monday morning. And how crowded the area was around the Palacio Real – the line went down the front and around the square the Palace shares with the Catedral de la Almudena.
At the Visitor’s Center kiosk to get our map, we discovered why. Coming to Madrid on Dia de la Constitucion is like going to Washington D.C. on July 4th. We modified our plan for the day.
Interior tours of Palace and the Cathedral were out. We headed to Plaza Mayor, which housed a Christmas Market, the proceeded down a street that was closed for a large open-air market (a combination of rummage sale and flea market) extending for over a mile,
then found some breathing space in the Botanical Gardens (4Epp).
We secured a table in a café restaurant for lunch before entering one of the most beautiful public parks on the planet – The Parque de el Retiro. This massive park includes close to 20% of the land of downtown Madrid. Lanes upon lanes of green space, ponds, fountains, and museums. The Palacio de Cristal offers a beautiful monument to Art Nouveau architecture.
The nearby Palacio de Velazquez, part of the Museo de Reina Sofia, is free to enter and currently houses a modern art exhibit.
Unfortunately, the world-renowned Prado Museum, a few blocks from the park, was closed for the Holiday.
It may not have been the day we planned for in Madrid, but we had a wonderful day.
Traveling through the Madrid airport was an experience. Almost all airports say to arrive at least 2-3 hours in advance. In Madrid, they really mean it – not just due to lines and crowds, but because it can take 25-30 minutes to get to the S terminal after clearing security and customs. I had no trouble getting my steps in that day!
Next stop – Panama City!