Travel in the Time of COVID: Europe 2021 – Spain VII

Comunidad de Andalucia: Cordoba

The drive from Jerez to Cordoba took us past many of the vineyards that grow the grapes for the region’s famous sherry. Along most of the main roads, you’ll see “El Torro” – the symbol of Spain, standing proudly (sometimes near Tio Pepi).

Cordoba was first established as a large settlement by the Romans after finding significant water supplies and silver, and they built the first city wall. Then came the Visigoths, followed by the Moors. Under the caliphate, Cordoba expanded and became the 2^nd largest city in Europe in the 10^th century. It became a center for medicine and education, but then frequent battles and changes in government over the next two centuries left it weakened until it was reconquered by the Spanish in 1236 by Ferdinand III. 

The city reflects many of the cultures of its inhabitants over the centuries, from its iconic bridge, to the castle, the cathedral, and even its walls. 

We entered the city by walking over the Roman Bridge. There was a bridge over the Guadalquiver River during Roman times, but the one standing is a mixture of structures and renovations over the centuries, rebuilding and repairing, and not completely of the original design. It is now only a pedestrian bridge, with a parallel bridge for vehicles (and from which you can get some nice photos).

Depending upon the ruler, the Moors were often tolerant of other religions, charging a tax on non-Muslims. As long as you did not proselytize your own religion and paid your tax, they left you alone to develop businesses and prosper. The Jewish community grew and thrived, building their houses and businesses (many using the city wall as one of their walls) creating the thriving Jewish Quarter. During the Spanish Inquisition, beginning in 1278, those of Jewish faith were told to convert, leave or die. Most left. To this day, the city of Cordoba does not have enough members to have an active Synagogue (according to our guide – the requirement is 10 adult Jewish males). The Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter had been converted into a school, and then rediscovered when a wooden panel that had been used to cover the carvings fell down. It is now a museum, exhibiting the Moorish influence on the decorations in the Synagogue. 

Because so many buildings utilized the city wall as part of its structure, the wall remained after the Spanish re-occupied the city. 

Cordoba is the only city with a Cathedral-Mosque. The Moors built and developed the mosque over centuries, with additions and modifications made by rulers as their budget allowed. In most cities, most of the mosque would be removed and the cathedral constructed in its place. In Cordoba, they added a bell tower, leaving the center courtyard and the main lay-out of the mosque, and re-consecrated as the Cathedral to Our Lady of Assumption (also, likely due to budget constraints as Ferdinand III was broke at the time he conquered Cordoba).

The last of the influences is the food, some of the best we had one journey – and we had some great food and wine along the way (as an aside for white wine drinkers – the Rueda region verdejos are really lovely). One of the best finds was a restaurant called The Albahaca, located on the alley Velazquez Bosco, where a 25 year-old chef serves inventive takes on classic local cuisine, from oxtail soup to fish and vegetarian dishes. Everyone at our table waddled away happy.  

We returned to Teulada, still friends after 10 days together.After this, it was time to say “adios, hasta luego”, to our friends and fly on to Lisbon, Portugal.